Recognized as a National-Level Historical and Cultural Relic, the ancient temple was built during the Later Le Dynasty, under the Chinh Hoa reign era (1675-1705). It is dedicated to Hung Dao Dai Vuong Tran Quoc Tuan, the revered national hero who led Dai Viet to victory against the Mongol invasions on three occasions. At Vietnam’s northern frontier, the temple stands as both a historical testament and a sacred cultural landmark symbolizing the protection of the nation’s territory.
Den Thuong is also distinctive for combining the worship of Saint Tran, a symbol of national strength, with the Three Palaces (Tam Phu) belief system, which embodies spiritual protection. Together, these traditions reflect the cultural resilience and spiritual identity of border communities.
For more than three decades, the preservation and restoration of Thuong Temple, ensuring that it remains well-maintained, immaculate, and filled with the warm glow of incense at Vietnam’s northern frontier, have been deeply shaped by the dedication, devotion, and life journey of one man: Artisan and Ritual Master Nguyen Dinh Luu, the temple’s chief incense keeper, embodying compassion, virtue, and wisdom.
Artisan and Ritual Master Nguyen Dinh Luu, the temple’s chief incense keeper, embodying compassion, virtue and wisdom.
A Sacred Land of Outstanding People and the Enduring Martial Spirit of the Tran Dynasty
To understand Nguyen Dinh Luu’s devotion and vision, one must first appreciate the historical and spiritual significance of Den Thuong. In the past, Mai Linh Mountain, now known as Hoa Hieu Hill, was chosen by Tran Quoc Tuan as a strategic site for signal fires and military commands in campaigns against northern invaders. Its feng shui setting, described as toa son vong thuy “backed by mountains and facing water” overlooks the river junction and border crossing, embracing the auspicious energy of the surrounding landscape.
For more than three centuries, the spirit of the Tran Dynasty, known as the Dong A spirit, has remained an enduring presence in local memory. Beneath the canopy of a heritage banyan tree believed to be over 300 years old, mist drifts across the mountain slopes as the temple bell echoes at dusk. Visitors come to pray for peace, good fortune and prosperity, while paying homage to Tran Quoc Tuan, whose courage and leadership helped safeguard the territorial integrity of Dai Viet.
The establishment of a temple dedicated to Tran Hung Dao in Lao Cai, a strategic frontier region, carries both spiritual and national significance. It affirms territorial sovereignty and strengthens the sense of confidence and security among border communities.
Every year, from the 13th to the 15th day of the first lunar month, Den Thuong hosts its annual festival, attracting thousands of residents and visitors who come to pay their respects, offer incense and participate in traditional cultural activities. Beyond honoring Tran Hung Dao, the festival celebrates the cultural identities of Lao Cai’s 25 ethnic groups, who live together in harmony and solidarity.
More than a place of worship, the temple reminds future generations of their ancestors’ heroic history, keeping the Dong A spirit alive along the nation’s frontier.
A Soldier of “Uncle Ho” and More Than Three Decades of Devoted Service
Den Thuong symbolizes the enduring vitality of spiritual culture in Vietnam’s borderlands, while Nguyen Dinh Luu has become a steadfast guardian of its heritage. Before dedicating himself to the temple, he served as a soldier and officer in the Vietnamese armed forces. Carrying the resilience, discipline and patriotism associated with “Uncle Ho’s Soldiers,” he embarked on a new journey of service after completing his military duties: caring for the sacred sanctuary and keeping its spiritual traditions alive.
When he first began looking after the temple more than thirty years ago, the surrounding area remained undeveloped and faced many difficulties. Driven by profound reverence for Saint Tran, he came to regard Den Thuong as his second home. Through scorching summers and bitterly cold winters, he has remained a diligent and caring presence within the temple grounds.
His responsibilities extend from sweeping fallen banyan leaves and cleaning ceremonial plaques to tending worship statues and guiding visitors in observing the proper rites. He also ensures that those who come to pay their respects are welcomed and cared for. Through his quiet dedication and the collective efforts of the Temple Management Board, Den Thuong has maintained its dignified, clean and welcoming appearance, offering a peaceful sanctuary for visitors seeking spiritual connection and tranquility.
A Devoted Heart and a Vision for Preserving Cultural Heritage
Nguyen Dinh Luu’s sincere heart is most evident in his hospitality, compassion and selfless service to the community. Visitors from Hanoi, Hai Phong and distant southern regions often remember his gentle smile and warm welcome. For him, preserving Den Thuong is not merely a spiritual duty; it is also a way to nurture patriotism, safeguard national heritage and uphold a cultural landmark at Vietnam’s northern frontier.
For years, the temple’s visitor area has provided hot tea, drinking water, voi leaf tea and coffee free of charge. Understanding the fatigue of long journeys and the devotion of those who come to worship, he ensures that visitors feel welcomed and cared for. As he often emphasizes: “This place is the result of everyone’s efforts, from the Temple Management Board to those who sweep the grounds and prepare the meals. Each person has a role of their own to play in making this sacred place more beautiful.”
His vision is equally evident in the temple’s restoration and renovation. With support from local authorities, relevant government agencies and community contributions, he has worked closely with others to improve the temple while respecting its historical character.
The challenge has been to expand and enhance the grounds to accommodate growing numbers of visitors without compromising the temple’s traditional architectural features, aged appearance and solemn atmosphere. Its seven main worship spaces, including the Buddhist sanctuary, the sanctuary dedicated to the Three Holy Mothers (Tam Toa Thanh Mau), the altar of Saint Tran, and the Left and Right Auxiliary Halls, are arranged according to established ritual traditions. The worship statues, adorned with traditional red lacquer and gold leaf, stand in solemn grandeur, while the green, well-maintained grounds complement the dignity of this national-level relic.
Beyond preserving the temple’s physical structures, Nguyen Dinh Luu also safeguards its intangible spiritual heritage. The traditional worship rites and hau dong ceremonies associated with Vietnamese Mother Goddess worship, performed on important occasions such as the opening-of-the-year ceremonies and festivals honoring the Holy Mothers, are conducted with solemnity and respect for established customs. His approach emphasizes the values of truth, goodness and beauty, gratitude toward ancestors, and respect for national roots, while discouraging superstitious practices.
More than thirty years have passed. The hair of the former military officer has turned grey, yet his dedication remains undiminished. Like an ancient banyan tree, he has quietly rooted himself in the sacred grounds of Den Thuong, helping preserve the spiritual values inherited from previous generations.
Today, Thuong Temple stands dignified and resplendent beside the Nam Thi River, firmly rooted at Vietnam’s northern frontier. Its enduring presence reflects both the sacred legacy of Tran Quoc Tuan and the unwavering devotion of people such as Nguyen Dinh Luu, who have dedicated their lives to its preservation.
The incense continues to rise, the temple bells continue to ring, and the story of this chief incense keeper, shaped by the noble traditions of “Uncle Ho’s Soldiers,” will continue to inspire generations of Vietnamese people, nurturing national pride and love for the homeland at the country’s frontier.
By Dang Dinh Chan
